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The Hofbräuhaus: a recommended stop in Munich, Germany

       By Ryan Sexton

  Having backpacked through Europe for 40 days a few years prior to my most recent trip, I have definitely tasted real beer and thoroughly enjoyed it.  But it was not until my more focused trip in Germany this year that I really got to experience German beer culturally.  Now in a way, I had already but nothing in the scope of what the Hofbräuhaus in Munich had to offer.  It was full of good times, good memories, good beer and certainly good food.  On top of that, the experience was very educational and culturally enlightening.
     Now one may quickly jump to the conclusion that it’s nothing but a ‘drunk tank’.  For the most part this is NOT true.  Sure, there might be a few people who have had one too many, but at what bar or club do you not ever see that?  But fear not, it rarely becomes an issue thanks to the abundant security at night, which typically is when it’s the busiest.  If you wish to avoid a large crowd, try going in the afternoon or early evening on the weekdays.  Some tours offer ‘beer challenges’ and ‘pub crawls’ and typically do these in the evenings and on the weekends.  
      Also there are several different areas.  If you want to see the polka band and hear people break out into song from the surrounding tables full of smiles and laughter, you should sit downstairs in the main hall.  If it’s nice out feel free to sit in the courtyard (biergarten), or if you prefer a more restaurant style and quieter experience, the second floor is the place to be.
 Now that I have hopefully assured you that it’s not merely a slosh house, and that it caters to almost everyone, we can get into the good stuff.  First and foremost, the beer!  You can get the original Hofbräuhaus beer in your choice of a 1 liter mug (about 3 beers) or just a tall mug.  You can also get it ‘dunkel’, or dark if that’s more pleasing to your pallet.  They also offer a variety of beers such as other local German beers and Hefeweizen.  I say go for the liters, not only does it taste good but it boils down to about 2 Euro a beer, which is a lot less than I pay for the now non-American owned Budweiser at bars and night clubs in the states.  It also tastes great!  Nice body, aroma and goes well with just about any type of food.  You can even buy those giant mugs or a stein if you want to, but keep in mind, they are heavy and as I found out, hard to haul back home.  I didn’t want to check it and possibly have it broken, so I kept it in my backpack wrapped in clothes. For one reason or another the mugs tend to look ‘suspicious’ on airport x-ray machines, which for me resulted in my bag being checked twice, once in Frankfurt then again back in the States.  So if you don’t want to un-pack and repack your carry-on I suggest putting them on top or shipping them if you want to avoid the hassle completely.  At any rate, they are pretty nice and just maybe will make the watery American counter parts taste a little better!
     Of course what goes well with a good beer (or liquid bread as they call it)?   Food of course!  And boy do they have some good food!  My traveling companion and I ate there twice because we loved it so much.  The meat there is always cooked to perfection and is very juicy.  The suckling pig was amazing.  The Crackling Pork Knuckles are to die for.  The chicken falls off the bone.  It is just amazing food and is almost like a little time warp.  For example, the Crackling Pork Knuckle (I really really recommend you try this) is like a big chunk of savory pork wrapped in its own attached bacon.  I’m not sure how they do it but they do it really well!  The sides are pretty basic and a bit odd.  I personally kind of liked them and kind of didn’t.  Things like potato balls are kind of bland and have a weird texture.  The bread balls are much better.  They also have bacon coleslaw-ish stuff which was pretty good, and a bacon red cabbage dish, well that’s good in moderation.  You can still have a treat even if you aren’t that hungry.  Pretzels or cookies anyone?  If you just want something to munch on or help sober yourself up definitely stop the Pretzel girl and purchase what grabs your eye from her basket of treats.
     Good food and beer is not all the Hofbräuhaus has to offer.  The fact that it is centuries old and has been involved in many historic events and enjoyed by many historic and famous people only adds to its charm.  After a day of walking the streets Hitler walked, standing where he stood as he preached his hateful propaganda and visiting the very site the beer hall putsch took place; stop by the Hofbräuhaus House to relax and refuel.  
     Other interesting facts about the Hofbräuhaus:  Did you know that women weren’t allowed in the Hofbräuhaus House, and it was originally for the noble and rich?  Also, there weren’t bathrooms in the building so you had to go outside and urinate in the still existing sloped drain in the cobblestone.  Well to fix this they put drains under the table that ran outside, this way one could relieve himself without losing his spot, or beer for that matter.  But what about the splatter one may ask?  Well, wooden walking canes were originally used to help guide the urine to the drain without getting others wet.  Weird, but genius, and lederhosen were even more convenient with its easy to open front flap.  Talk about Germany efficiency! I would really recommend a tour to get the full history of this very Bavarian watering hole.
     I’m incredibly thankful I was able to stop in Munich.  At first I thought it was just a tourist trap and that the Hofbräuhaus was just a drunk tank.  I’ve never been happier to be wrong.  The sheer amount of history is truly interesting, the beer is some of the best I’ve had, and the food is mouth watering.  People are also pretty friendly there and the city is, for the most part, clean.  Tours are also in abundance and I would recommend taking one.  Noambit.com is working on one and their attention to detail is fantastic.  Don’t pass up Munich and definitely don’t pass up the Hofbräuhaus!  Till my next adventure, take care and remember the only boundaries are the ones you set for yourself, so get out there and explore!

El Mexicano Poreč, Croatia: mexican food in Europe done right

  Let’s face it, Europe is not known for its fine Mexican restaurants.  But what’s a guy, who grew up in southern California where great Mexican food can be found on each street corner to do when that craving kicks in.  The answer may surprise you; head to Poreč, Croatia and the brand new El Mexicano.
    So I don’t think I’m completely atypical when I say that after a few weeks of traveling around Europe…I get tired of pasta, pizza and döners.  They’re great and all but too much of a good thing is well, too much.  This is when, my eyes start to wander about the streets for something different, something that stands out, something that in many respects has no place being in Europe.  And then, like a mirage in a pasta & pizza filled desert, the European, Mexican [Mexipean] food restaurant appears. 
    After finding myself in this situation several times I can say, with an embarrassed smile, that I’ve tasted my share of Mexican food in Europe.  For this reason, I can also say that each time, my  expectations are lower and lower.  There’s never free chips and salsa.  The hot sauce is typically about the same consistency and temperature of ketchup, and good luck explaining that you want your burrito wet.  But yet, I sit down time and time again. 
    My last night in Croatia was no different.  The streets were damp, German tourists had not yet arrived to fill the quite city and I was tired of pizza.  Then, in the distance I saw the Mexican flag blowing gently in the wind.  Could it be?  In this relatively small port town in Croatia? 
    With expectations low, but my disdain at the thought of more Pasta high I went on in to El Mexicano.  Immediately I was surprised by the décor.  For a change I actually felt as if I was at a Mexican restaurant.  Mexican tapestries hung from the wall (and ceiling), corona flags acted as trim for a wall where a sign reads, “Tequila boom boom” and antiques that give a sort of rustic charm were thoughtfully strewn about.  After a chat with the owner Zeff Llesi, I found out that everything in the place was actually ordered from a warehouse in Italy. But you wouldn’t know it.  The theme was right.  Now, what about the food.
    Quickly greeted by the owner I was sat down at one of the brightly colored tables and presented a menu.  During my visit the menus were not in English, but this is rather normal for Poreč where tourism comes overwhelmingly from Germany and Italy.  Besides, anyone who needs an English menu to order Mexican food shou ld just stay home. Finding a very nice array of options I settled on chips and salsa (not free but only 15 Kuna or about $2.50 in April 2009) and the enchilada rojas plate (about 10 USD).  As Zeff later explained, the enchiladas seem to be a local favorite and over the next few months an even larger menu will include more of these tasty treats.
    First and quickly, the chips and salsa arrived…and there were three dips!!  The chips were nice, not homemade, but crisp and fresh out of a bag. The dips…well, this is where I knew I found something special. While one was the obligatory Mexipean ketchup variety the chunky tomato salsa was really very good.  And the “sour cream” type dip; it was better than sour cream.
    Just in time the enchiladas arrived.  It looked like an enchilada; it smelled like an enchilada but would it taste like an enchilada?  The fact that Zeff had presented a plate that already hit two marks, look and smell, which most Mexipean eateries miss, caused my excitement to grow.  15 minutes later I had cleared my plate of delicious meat wrapped in a sauce soaked and perfectly baked tortillas with a side of rice.  The meal I had just had was hands down the best Mexican Food I had ever had in Europe.
     Waiving Zeff over I just had to tell him and the chef how great the food was.  The friendly owner quickly began telling me all about the restaurant.  He told me how in the summer a nice terrace of tables and chairs will line the plaza out front, and how all of the food comes fresh from a nearby distributor and that I should really try his homemade Rakija [ra-khy-ya].
    Never one to turn down something homemade and with a kick I was treated to an outstanding shot (ok, I had two) of this typical, clear, brandy/whiskey type drink distilled using various fruits.  The taste is a bit like tequila but quite smooth and all in all it followed the Mexican food perfectly.   Knowing this little drink is a must for everyone, I’ve spoken with Zeff again and he has graciously agreed to give one free shot of his Rakija to anyone who mentions this article through July 2009. 
     So, next time you’re wandering the streets of Poreč Croatia, tired of the very good but overdone offerings of pizza and pasta, stop on in.  I’m glad I did.  My faith in Mexipean food has been rekindled and from that meal forward, all future visits to those restaurants who dare to offer the exotic will be compared to Zeff’s fabulous El Mexicano.    

   You can find El Mexicano at Trg F.Supila 4, right behind Hotel Neptune.

A Good Hotel In Munich, Germany: hotel dolomit is an option to consider

  

 I’m no expert on hotels.  I may not really understand the 2,3 or 4 star ratings.  I care about just a few things.  Price, location and comfort; in that order.  So, when I found Hotel Dolomit (yeah the name is a bit off putting) in Munich, Germany for the price I did, I said to myself; “one down two to go”.
   For a late April Saturday in Munich I was having a bit of trouble deciding between a hotel and a hostel.  Since I was traveling with a friend I knew that two beds in a hostel could cost as much or more than splitting a budget hotel.  In fact a recent search on hostelworld.com has the cheapest result for a single bed in a 10 bed dorm room at $26.50.  Could I find something close to that price without having to sleep with in a bunk bed with 8 strangers? As luck would have it, the answer was yes and I stumbled upon Hotel Dolomit.  At just $58.00 for a double room I was skeptical but as I said price is number one on my list. So my travel partner and I decided to split the price and spend $5.00 more than the hostel, allowing ourselves the amenity of sleeping in.
   With location next on my list I surveyed the hotel’s website.  Now, when a hotel is located right next to the main train station as Dolomit is…bells go off.  The areas around train stations in Europe are hit and miss, particularly in the big cities.  Beggars, solicitors, crazy people and down right shady characters all seem to be drawn to these locations as if some “weirdo beacon” shines from the rooftops.  But with the price so low, I took a gamble and it paid off.  
   The hotel is located just down the street from the Munich hauptbahnhof (main train station), not even a block away.  Now of course Munich does have its share of weirdos, but all in all the area is not that bad.  There are a few sex shops between Dolomite and the train station but also a few “casinos” where old men play pool and you can use the internet at a cheap price.  There is a Deutsch Bank right around the corner from the Hotel and the staff is eager to help point out anything else you might need.  Best of all, from this location you can easily walk to the main sights of the city…including the Hofbrauhaus which is about a 15-20 minute walk.  

View Hofbrauhaus Munich in a larger map

   Well, I knew it was cheap and I’d have no problem finding the place but would it be comfortable?  My expectations were not high. Still, upon arriving I was pleasantly surprised.  The 24 hour reception was welcoming and a nice lobby was provided with places to sit and cold beer and water for purchase.  The staff was genuinely helpful and even offered to Google the meeting point of a tour I was planning to take.  In fact, when I asked if it would be ok to check out an hour late the following day, there was no hesitation to oblige.
    The room which was on the top floor had a nice view of the intersection below bu t was surprisingly quiet.  The bed was comfortable and a flat screen TV hung in the corner.  The décor is not the most modern looking but felt new.  Wooden headboards ran along the back of the beds and reading lights were placed accessibly nearby. 
    The bathroom had its issues but not nearly as many as the hostel option likely would have presented.  Decorated in an orange color that was retired from the spectrum in 1964 the room with shower, toilet, sink and mirror was rather small.  In fact, for anyone who has been on a Carnival or Royal Caribbean cruise…that is exactly what you get.  Seriously it looks like they ordered a bunch of cruise ship brand “one box bathroom” kits and plopped them in the room.  Plumbing was also a bit of an issue as the shallow shower seemed to fill up quicker than it could drain.  Now that I think about it the same thing always happens on the cruise ships too.
   All in all the hotel has 43 guest rooms, wi-fi, and a paid breakfast option.  If you are driving they also have a nearby parking garage that guests can use at a discount. Leaving your bags after check-out and while you explore the city is no problem either.  A locked storage closet in direct view of the 24 hour reception is a safe place to leave whatever you’re lugging. 
   To sum it all up; if you’re traveling with at least one other person and you’re not looking for mints on your pillow service this hotel is a great choice.  When deciding between staying in a hostel and a cheap, convenient and rather comfortable budget hotel go with Hotel Dolomit.  For a few bucks more you’ll be able to avoid 8 strangers waking up early to catch a train and sleep through some of that hofbrauhaus hangover.

Istria, Croatia Wine Producers: a huge quantity of quality

     

 
There are countless reasons to consider Istria, Croatia as a travel destination.  The scenery is amazing, the prices are low, the wild asparagus in the spring is delicious, the white truffles in the winter are to die for and the locals are as friendly as can be.  At the top of the list however has to be the local wine. 
    With two distinctly Croatian varieties, Malvazija (Mal-vāz-e-ă) a floral white and Terran a hearty red, being brought to the table, I was lucky enough to sit down at several meals with some of the regions leading wine producers to discuss wine, Istria and the respectfully humble goals they all share.
    I asked Mladen Rožanić, the owner of Roxanich wines and aptly self-titl ed ‘wine designer’, “What drove you to start making wine after another, already successful career?”   The answer was simple, direct and immediately apparent as I tasted varieties from his vineyard; “I’ve tasted lousy wine, I just wanted to make a wine that was good”. It’s this mentality that seems to permeate the local wine producers.     
     Quantity is not the goal.  You won’t be able to find wines like Roxanich (a name derived from his traditional, old family name) Teran in your local supermarket’s wine section.  Money is not the aim. A bottle of the fine wines I’m talking about will run you about 10 Euro in a Croatian wine shop or 20 Euro at an Istrian Konoba (the local term for a tavern/restaurant). And besides most of these guys had plenty of money before even entering the wine biz.  It is producing a quality product in an organic, small scale and traditional way with a passion for that special wine that comes from Istrian grapes. 
    Peter Poletti, the 6th generation owner of Poletti wines which has won gold medals for both Malvazija and Cabernet Sauvignon at the biggest regional wine show, Vinistria, clearly explained this mentality to me during a dinner in a local Konoba; “We run a family business, to expand would mean diminishing our quality and this is always the question…do you want to have the quality or the quantity?  For me, and many of my colleagues, it is not about the money.  I do this because I love wine; I love to work with wine.  It is not something we just woke up one morning and decided to do.  We do it because it is Istrian tradition.  Since Istria is a small country we must compete with larger countries with what we have and what we have is quality wine.  Without an emphasis on quality we can not compete.”
    And in every glass and every conversation with the wine producers (and drinkers) this is apparent. These  men love Istria and work hard to cultivate what the region has to offer at its finest.  Even touring the local wineries drives this point home.  The production is relatively small.  Small cellars in unassuming country homes house stainless steel and/ or oak barrels where the passionately cultivated grapes ferment and mature.  “Hygene, time and temperature are  three of the most important components in a winery” says Dr. Ivica Matošević, owner of Matošević wines, “getting the right temperature when fermenting wine is like making a good soup.  You can use a pressure cooker and cook the soup in 10 minutes but it does not have the flavor.  You can make a much higher quality soup with much more flavor if you cook it slowly.” 
    As the president of Vinistria 2009 Matošević knows that producing a consistent, quality wine is important for the region. “Each of my colleagues has his own recipe.  Some prefer the less accented flavor of wines like those that come from Australia or South Africa and don’t use brand new oak barrels…others [like himself] do and only use new oak barrels for aging.  The key is to provide consistency.  The people who like my wines expect the same standard every year.”
    The passion for what Istria has the innate potential to offer is not only apparent when tasting these wines but even more so when in the presence of these men.  Their business may be wine but their lives are fully devoted to Istria.  
    Many of the wineries on the wine roads in Istria are open for tours, lunches and wine tastings.  Seeking out the websites of the individual wineries will often provide you the information needed to set up a visit.  Also, if interested in a tour of Istria which can include such visits and much much more feel free to contact me to help you through the process.  chris@noambit.com

       

Motovun, Croatia & Hotel Kaštel: well worth the drive

    At the top of a hill in Croatia sits what is arguably the most beautiful town in the region and at its center stands the Hotel Kaštel.   Inseparably linked in my memory there’s really no way to write about the hotel, as were my initial intentions, without also telling you a little about the town of Motovun.
    Surrounded by lush green land, dotted with small villages and wine vineyards producing the local specialty Malvasia and Terran varities, Motovun rises above expectation and imagination.   The belfry stands out as the highest point as you make your way towards the town on small two lane roads that wind between the hills, almost forcing you to forget the industrialized world that is bringing a highway to completion nearby.  
    As with most of Istria (the peninsula region of Croatia) getting around is rather limited to driving oneself or being part of a tour.  But with some good directions or GPS finding your destination is no problem and everyone in Istria knows where Motovun is.
    In fact, this small town with around 400 live in residents bursts at the seams each year as thousands flock to the Motovun film festival.  With huge screens and rows and rows of chairs set up throughout the city onlookers enjoy independent films amongst locals, visitors and breathtaking views.
    The town itself is quite small and consists of only one drivable road to the top of the hill.  With city walls dating back to the 12th Century the shop lined streets are pleasant to stroll while absorbing the Venetian colonial architecture that permeates the region.  There are souvenir shop s that don’t come off to kitschy and a few well reviewed places to eat.  Reviewed back in February 2009 by the NY Times, Mondo Konoba (which translates as Mondo Tavern) is a “nice” place to eat. My vote for good eats however is Pod Voltom in front of Hotel Kaštel, just under the passageway (You'll see a sign above the door that says "Taverna").  The food is excellent and they don’t have this air of “we’ve just been reviewed by the NY Times” about them.  Keep an eye out for the waitress who looks a lot like Tammy Faye Baker!
 If you’re looking for snacks or camera batteries keep your eye’s peeled for the one, small…I mean very small…grocery store on the left hand side of the main road headed up the hill.  They’ll take, the local currency, Kuna, as well as Euros.
    As you near the top of the hill where the city gate stands with its arched entryway, look to the valley below.  Very soon an 18 hole golf course will fill a sizable chunk of land and the hearts of tourists who  can’t go without golf.  Passing through the gate notice the stone reliefs hanging from the walls.  Most recognizable is the winged lion associated with Venice but there are also some 1st century tombstones. 
    Despite Motovun’s small size there are a couple notable people who were born here.  The first is less well known but for those music historians out there, the composer and music printer (meaning he was among the first to print sheet music) Andrea Antico spent his early years here.  A bit more popular and remembered by a plaque set on a wall near the hotel, Mario Andretti, the legendary race car driver, once raced small handmade soapbox cars through the streets as a child.
    But now it’s your turn to make Motovun home for a night or two and the Hotel Kaštel is the perfect place to do that.  Standing at the top of the hill near the Church of St. Stephan the 17th Century Palace turned hotel welcomes temporary residents with charm, outstanding views and hospitality with a smile.
    There are 29 rooms, all with breathtaking views of the valley below.  Only one has a balcony which overlooks the square in front of the hotel but the other rooms are quite spacious.  Besides the balcony suit the rooms that I’ve stayed in had a living room area with a sofa and small TV as well as a bedroom with another, larger TV.  The bathrooms are meticulously clean but could probably use a bit of updating in terms of hardware. 
    The décor in the rooms screams, “gag me with a spoon” 1980’s but if that doesn’t just add to the hotel’s charm it certainly makes looking out your windows that much more enjoyable.  There is Wi-Fi internet access throughout the hotel for a charge and if it’s not in use a single computer in the lobby has some of the fastest internet I’ve encountered in Croatia.
    A restaurant on the lobby floor serves up some excellent local dishes such as beefsteak with truffles and the buffet style breakfast which comes with your stay fills you up with eggs, sausages, baked goods, coffee as you like it and other standard fare.  You’ll also find a small café/ bar where late night thirsts can be satisfied with the help of a very friendly and attentive staff. If the sun is shinning and the breeze is light, take your meal out front of the hotel where table service comes with even more charming surroundings. Just in front of the hotel you’ll find the local post office where you can get postcards and stamps.  Plan accordingly though; it’s only open about 5 hours a day.
    On the lowest level one can treat him or herself to the use of a wellness center that is equipped with just about any mode of pampering you can desire.  From simple massages to a facial treatment that uses 24-carat gold the prices (as with all of Istria) make it hard to pass up.  A 30 minute massage runs 150kn which at around 25 dollars is more than worth the time it will take away from exploring the rest of Croatia.  When the weather is nice a small relaxation garden is just outside. 
    But best of all is the price for a nights stay.  In the high season which runs July and August in Croatia, a low 45 Euros or around 60 US (as of April 2009) will get you a double with breakfast. You’d be hard pressed to find a dingy hotel, near an adult video store, across from a noisy train station without in suite bathrooms anywhere else in Europe for less.  Although getting to Motovun might initially deter some travelers, the low price of staying here, the staff and the pictures you’ll set as your computer desktop when you return home certainly makes consideration worth it.
  If you are interested in organizing a tour of Istria, with stops at local wineries, olive oil tastings and nights in places like Motovun and Hotel Kaštel feel free to contact me. I can certainly help set up a dream vacation for small groups on vacation, business retreats and anything in between. chris@noambit.com